I am starting a new page for folks who have difficulty crocheting with bulky material. In general these rugs can test a persons endurance if completed in a relatively short period of time!
SO...
Click Here for tips and tricks of the same sort but with narrower strips. This page will change as I figure out the best widths, etc... I have an elbow that is giving me problems right now...Made me think about those who can't handle a lot of strain on their hands and other joints.
Tips and Tricks:
I have some regular visitors that I would like to thank:
Hello to SanDiego CA,SGnnicolaul+Mare RO,Sunnyvale CA,Moscow RU,Zwolle NL,and many more!!
Hearing from you to know whether you are finding this site useful would be a great!
I am curious to know what you are doing with this information. Please consider emailing me.
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* All tee shirt rugs on this site as of 12/30/08 were created with a size K crochet hook.*
*Best tees to use-
High cotton content is the best. They will stretch predictably,
are quite absorbent, (very useful for entry or Pet mats!)
And also diffuse heat evenly, which is important when making pot holders.
I would discourage you from using synthetic fabrics in pot holders since they could have hot spots and burns could occur. However, heat isn't a problem with rugs so ... use whatever you have and have fun!
*Estimating size of Stitches-
An average width of strip is a fat 1/2 to skinny 3/4 inch. Moderately stretched the width should be slightly under 1/2".
Each stitch ends up about 3/4 an inch.
Test with a short piece first so you can get an idea of what you have. Excessively stretchy pieces can still be used but it is essential to get a feel for how tight or loose to work.
*Side seams?
It is easiest to use shirts without side seams. Cut off the hem and then cut across under the arms in the same direction as with the hem. You should have a TUBE of fabric.
Now cut corkscrew style in one continuous strip and just wrap in a ball for later use...no sewing or tying of ends.
*Ahh, Rotary Cutters...
What a hand saver. I used scissors for the first couple of rugs but then my hands started to rebel!
I have purchased several brands over the years. Some are better than others (some are more pricey!) but all seem to work well. If you want to do this for income I STRONGLY suggest you get a rotary cutter too.
Synthetic material will dull it faster. There are even blade sharpeners available for them. Your Local Super Center Department Store carries a variety of cutters. I think larger blades are more easily controlled.
Putting a tad of some kind of grease on the shaft that the blade turns on is helpful to extend the life of your cutter. It keeps down the friction so the shaft won't get grooved easily.
*Pattern Suggestions
Quilt Patterns:
I have drawn out my favorite ones on graph paper. Usually one stitch for each box and about 3/4 inch per stitch is a good average. Quilt Patterns are great because you can make a long line of them or group them in rows for your desired shape.
See the examples of Churn Dash on the Main Page. Try to use one color, very similar colors, or rows of the pattern colors for your borders so it won't take way from the beauty of your rug.
Cross stitch Patterns:
Once again the one stitch per square is a good guide. Stick to simple designs in the beginning. As you gain experience working with them the ability to manipulate and change them will come. You do have to be careful, though. Some patterns are so simple that they do not create a good picture with the large stitches of the T shirts.
A Design with under 12 squares could be unattractive as a rug. If you REALLY want to use it try
Enlarging the pattern...
Copy it onto graph paper using a cluster of 4 squares for each original square. This allows you to add detail but keep the same design. If you do not understand this explanation please feel free to email or call me.
Freehand Crazy Quilt Type:
I enjoy doing abstract patterns also. It allows you to work without as much concentration AND odd pieces and colors can be utilized. It won't matter if you run out. Simple go on to the next color.
Try increasing one stitch in one or both direction for triangles.
For a diagonal line ... make a couple of stitches of your chosen color, then shift it over one stitch in the same direction each time you make a row.
*Changing colors
I have found changing colors to sometimes be a challenge. Hope these suggestions assist you in avoiding too many knots and loose ends...
Hiding ends:
Hold the tail of your new color along the top of your row. As you make stitches across your piece, enclose the tail in them. you won't have to work them in later as they will already be taken care of!
When you are finished with a color you can do the same thing with that tail too.
Adding a new string:
Make a slip knot in the end of the new color you want to add. When ready to start the new color hook the slip knot and pull it through. Then continue to work with the new color for the desired length.
When you are finished with that color, let the string hang down the side of your work facing you. Make a slip knot in your next color, pull it through and continue to work.
As you come BACK across the next row pick up and drop the appropriate color as you go. You may end up with several attached colors but will not have to worry about knots or hiding tails.
I have had as many as 11 or 12 attached balls of string on a very complicated pattern. To help keep them from tangling all up, try using a long narrow container of some kind with all the ball lined up in order.
I have used a rectangle plastic container or an old drawer from a treadle sewing cabinet for this purpose...whatever will work for you.
There are some very nice craft totes that have multiple compartments...IDEAL for this kind of work. AND you can haul it anywhere you want! Look in you local Super center Department store.
More tips to come! :)
Naomi Hedden
Lawrenceburg Ky 40342
502-859-3604
